Eastern Life And Scenery

CONTENTS TO VOL. I.

I.—LIFE IN THE SERAI.

My First Portrait. — Difficult Installation. — " Shimdy !Shimdy ! "—The Handsome Circassian.—An Unfortu­nate Costume.—"Whereis the Soul?"—The Lay Figure.—The Wedding Dresses of Two Sultanas.—The Portraitof an Imperial Princess.—A Serai on the Bosphorus.—
Waiting.—The Sultana.—In the Harem.—Diamonds andDifficulties.—Hala'iks and Hanums.—Excellent Order ofthe Household.—Oustas, Calf as, and Children.—Liningthe Quilts.—Draping the Antary.—Prosperous Slaves.—Backshish and Presents.—Entangled Music.—"CavehAlti."—The multiplied Work of the Imperial Kitchen.—The Teachers of the Harem.—A CagedBird.—'' Destour!''—The Dinner Trays.—The Military Band.—Circassianand Georgian Beauties.—Souzy-Dil and her Violoncello.—Deilferat and her Double-Bass.—The Class of Tumblers.—An Evening Entertainment.—The Pantomime.—TheBall and the Red Bandanas.—Portrait of a Seraili.—Beautiful Jewellery 1

II.—IN STAMBOUL.

The Bridge.—Place of Executions.—The Old Seraglio.—AlaiKiosk.—The Guilds of Constantinople.—Their PatronSaints.—An Old Stone.—Bab-Houmayoun.—Fountain ofAhmed III.—His Inscription.—St. Sophia.—Constructionand Destruction.—The Samaritan's Well.—The Hindoo'sTree.—The Atmeidan 42

III.—DIVAN YOLOU AND THE BAZAARS.

A fine Street View.—The Burnt Column.—The House of Busbek. — The Noor Osmanieh. — Kebabs. — Bazaar Touters. — Hadji Osman.—Fading Splendours.—Seal Engravers.—Spoonmakers.—Mosque of Sultan Baya-zid II.—Ramazan Bazaar.—The Petted Pigeons.—Mer­chants from the far East.—Bric-â-brac 58

IV.—PERA.

The Grande Rue.—Street Commerce.—A Quiet Corner.—Bul­garian Milkman.—Maltese Goats.—Snails and Cuttlefish.—'' Milk-drinking Lambs." —'' Koush Conmaz ! " —Caramanian Mutton.—The "Djighirdji " and Marco.—A Dog's District.—The Bear and his Leader.—The Schekerdji.—Mohalibe.—Oil, Lemon, Soot, and Charcoal.—A humble Devotee.—" Sakas."—The Buffalo Cart.—AGreek Funeral.—A Quiet Time.—The Fire Gun.—GreatFireofPera 72

V.—EVERYDAY LIFE IN A HAREM.

The Family of the Pasha.—A Tiny Woman.—A Sucking General.—Tchaousch Hanum.—The Eldest Daughter.— Turkish Beds.—Nomadic Furniture.—Concerning House­hold Matters.—Risk of Fire.—The Duties and Condition of "Hala'iks."—Female Pedlars.—Life on a Farm in Asia Minor 99

VI.—EVERYDAY LIFE IN A HAREM.

Djenâniah Calf a.—DjemilĞ.—" A Sad Coquette."—EntangledInterchange of Sentiments.—An Adventure.—Reflections.—Portrait of the Hanum.—A Venerable Fiance.—Collection of Antiquities.—A Brick Tablet.—Cylinders.—Seals. Gems and Coins.—Legend of Nimrod.—Moses.—Dreamof a Sultan.—Isolation 113

VII.—A STRAY THREAD.—FROM YALI-KIOSK TO YEDI-KOULE.

A Feeble Line of Rail.—A Simple Booking-Office.—Patient Passengers.—The Panorama unwinds.—Byzantine Remains.—Gardens of the Old Seraglio.—A Calm Decay.— Remains of the Great Palace of Constantine, of Justinian, of Heraelius.—BeautifulFragments.—Ruins of a Palace ofTheodosius the Younger.—Koum-Kapou.—Vlanga-Bos-tan.—The " Pomegranate Gate."—Monastery of St. JohnStudius.—Yedi-Koule (the Seven Towers).—Camels.—The Fortress and State Prisons.—The Industrial School.—The Golden Gate 129

VIII.—THE LAND-WALLS OF CONSTANTINOPLE.

NO. I.—THE TOWEE OF ISAAC ANGELUS AND THE PEISONSOF ANEMA.

The " Sebil-Khane " and the Steam Mill.—The Blachernce.-r-Five Miles of Towers and Battlements.—The Tower ofIsaac Angelus.—State Prisons of Anemâ.—A walled-up Gate 140

IX.—THE LAND-WALLS OF CONSTANTINOPLE.

II.—TEKFUE-SEEAI.

Eghri-capou.—The Stamboul Taksim.—Origin of "Sou-Terazi" (the Water Towers).—Interesting Remains.—Tekfur-Serai.—The Hall of the Emperors.—History of a Diamond, the " Tchoban Tashy." 147

X—THE LAND-WALLS OF CONSTANTINOPLE.

III.—FEOM TEKFUE-SEEAI TO THE SEA OF MAEMOBA.

Kerkoporta.—Useless Destruction.—View from the Top ofthe Wall.—Kachrie Djami.—The Land-Walls of Con­stantine.— The Adrianople Gate.—The Lycas. — The"Riven Tower."—An Ancient Burial-place of the GothicGuard.—A Monster Cannon: its requirements, its ven­
geance, and its fate.—Mevlaneh Capoussy.—Silivria Capoussy.—The Burial-place of Aliof Janiria.—The GoldenGate.—A Railway Arch !—The last Tower of the Land-Walls 156

XL—BALOUKLI AND THE FESTIVAL OF THE FISHES.

Up the Golden Horn.;—The Okmei'dan.—Aî wan-Serai.—The Greek Burial-ground.—An Animated Scene.—DancingHamals.— Laborious Enjoyment.—Greek Dancing. —Solemn Gaieties.—Tchinganas.—AFuneral.—The Churchof Baloukli.—The Miraculous Fishes.—The Fragments ofa Festival 168

XII.—VILLAGE LIFE IN TURKEY.

Round the Meidan.—The Meidan.—The Grey Wooden House. —The Imam's House and the Battle of the Broomsticks. — Ibrahim.—The Rose-Coloured House.—The Ruined House.—The Yellow Konak.—Two Cottages 184

XIII.—THE TURKISH GIRLS' SCHOOL.

The Normal School of Yere Batan.—Opening Ceremonies.—A small "Medjliss."—The Drawing Class Room.—AFirst Lesson.—Art Students, their Ways and Manners.—Discord.—A " Tender Infant."—Practice better thanPrecept. — '' Yavash.'' — Cracked Konaks.—Djenab.— DeH Fatima.—Working for the "imtihan."—Emine.—Fetiye and Munire.—A Circassian Mother.—Djemile andHer Work.—Camma, the Abyssinian.—The Examina­tions.—A Visit to the Home of Djenab.—Black Coffeeand Gossip. — The Marriage-maker. — Anarchy. — ThePoor Old Mudir 221

XIV.—THE IFTAR.

Turkish. Society.—Ramazan.—The If tar.—Djemile and Ze-he'ira.—How to sit round a Dining-table.—Bouyouroun."—A Varied Repast.—" Aschourah."—The Young Hanums.—Sabiha and the Little Beys.—Neighbourly Visits.—Hospitality 249

XV.—THE GREAT BURIAL-GROUND OF SCUTARI.

The Rustic " Cafe."—Dreamy Influences.—The " Mezarlik."Three Little Donkeys and their Driver.—Ali Baba's Wife.—The Oil Jars.—Copper Mangals and Metal Lamps.—Allah-edeen.— Alnaschar's Eggs.— A Dream rudelybroken.—A Turbe, Tombs, and Shrines.—Reverence.—Beautiful Epitaphs.—The Tomb of a Horse.—Its Extra­ordinary Efficacy.—The Use of a Long "Tessbih."—Gloomy Depths.—Lingering Rays 271

XVI.—THE HOWLING DERVISHES.

The Teke.—A Venerable Scheik and his Little Son.—Dis­criminate Salutations.—Devotees.—Growing Excitement.—A Pause.—Infant "Faithful."—Frantic Devotion.—AHolySanton 282

XVII.—A STEP EASTWARDS.

NO. I.

On the Road to Nicomedia.—In search of the Tomb of Han­nibal.—Church of St. Euphemia.—Elastic Railway Ar­rangements.—The Bay of Kalamitza.—Ayasma of St.John Chrysostom.—Fanaraki.—A Summer Palace ofJustinian.—" Kaish Dagh."—Maltepe.—Tomato Paste.—Cartal.—Pendik.—The Gulf of Ismid.—Station ofGuebseh 290

NO. II.—GUEBSEH.

The Ruins of Eski-Hissar.—The Baths of Yalova.—Crusa­ders.—The Baths of Pythia.—The Turkish Peasant.—Guebseh.—Beautiful Mosque.—The "Mezarlık."—AHanum of the Good Old Time.—A Native Repast.—TheCamel Stables 299

XVIII.—EST THE SERAI.

NO. II.

Once more in the Serai.—A Pretty Scene.—In the Visitors'Room.—Neat Needlework.—Souvenirs of former Gaieties.The Invasion of Crinoline.—Art under Difficulties.—ThePocket Sketch-book.—The old Negress and the Sud'na.—Peaceful Pictures.—The Call to Prayer.—The Sejjade.The Namaz.—The Prescribed Hours.—The Tessbih.—A Dying Halaik.—Marriage of the Ibrikdar Ousta.—Prosperous Servitude and Undesirable Freedom.—Ghevheri 307

XIX.—THE MIDDLE BRIDGE.

An Unfashionable Lounge.—Shores of the Golden Horn.— Churches and Church Mosques.—Black Sea Boats.— Caiques and Mahones. — A Pasha's "Five-pair." — Sandals.—A Man-of-War's Boat.—The Bazaar Caique 322

XX.—FACTS, FANCIES, AND FOLK-LORE.

Festival of the Firstborn.—Turkish Caudle.—Tchinganas.—A Splendid Bed and Cradle.—Naming the Infant.—Pre­cautions against the " Evil Eye."—The use of Incense.— Dog-bread.—A Faulty Pattern.—Polite Spitting.—The Value of Old Shoes and of Blue Beads.—Breadcrumbs and Scraps of Paper.—Infused "Writing.—The Seven Holy Nights.—The Night of Terror.—The Night of Power.—Aschourah and Nevrouzie.—Invention of Con­fectionery.—Garlic and Onions.—A Kurd's Appreciation. —Shem and his Bees.—BalMss, Queen of Sheba, and her Difficulties. — Solomon, a Basket-Maker. — Concerning Mangals.—The Origin of the Deluge.—The Old Woman of Kufa.—Carrier Pigeons, and the Fate of Yezid and Dj ebada.—Dyvits invented by Enoch 330